The Chaos Report

And one in Kyoto

Sure, when you go to Japan, you should venture deep into the countryside and stay at a rustic and/ or fancy inn/spa.

But if you haven’t got the time, there are plenty of great options a stone’s throw from — or even in — downtown Tokyo. And I don’t mean spas where they truck hot spring water in. I mean where it’s actually bubbling up from the ground where you sit.

Most day use hot spring baths operate using a similar system: upon entering you put your shoes in a small locker and the lock is on a wristband along with a sensor. You scan that sensor every time you want to buy anything: from a towel, to a drink, to access into a special bathing area. Sometimes there’s an interim step where you turn this wristband in at the front desk and they exchange it for a sensor, but this is less common. You settle up on the way out, usually by a machine that has an English language option.

None of these are expensive. At all. I didn’t include prices because they change sometimes, but I did include links to websites, so you can check the prices for yourself before you get out there. A lot of the cost will depend on how much you want to spend on upgrades, food, drinks, etc., with the most basic option of just a bath (which usually includes a small towel that you can keep and maybe pajamas that you can’t) being the most reasonable.

One last note before the fun begins: yes, it’s all naked. Although none of the places I’m going to mention are co-ed. And you are expected to shower thoroughly before entering any bath. Also, except where noted, tattoos are generally not allowed. Some places will sell you stickers to cover your tattoos and then let you in. But mostly it’s just a “no” especially for local family places.

Most of the places do have co-ed saunas and restaurants where you’ll wear pajamas they give you.

Finally, it’s quiet. People generally do not speak to each other while they’re. having a soak. Unless they’re families with young kids or friends who are bathing together. Very different from those who frequent ice baths, say, in other parts of Asia and the West. If you feel like taking a cold. bath, it’s there, just slide in. Most all places have one. Don’t expect anyone to cheer you on. Delight in the fact that there’s no fetishization of this or anything else. It’s very ritualistic, but it’s also very normal.

I will list several here in no particular order. They are all great in their own way.

1. Kakeinoyu (花景の湯). This is one of the newest hot spring spas in Tokyo, and it is spotless. They give you lots of great pajamas to use while you’re there, and have many colors and sizes; you just choose. It’s also located next to an amusement park, so it might be a little disconcerting when you’re in the outdoor bath to see a roller coaster going by. The trade-off is these same outdoor baths have an amazing view of downtown Tokyo, both in the afternoon and especially at night (it stays open until 11PM). One small complaint about the outdoor baths: they are too shallow to stand, but too deep to sit. They have numerous indoor baths as well, including a bath with an electric current pulsing through it. This is not that uncommon. But might be an eerie feeling for a first-timer. Bear with it, and believe me the electric pulses work therapeutic magic on a sore back or thighs much more effectively than any jacuzzi you’ve ever been in. There’s also a huge hammam here, which is fantastic; the few extra dollars you have to pay is well worth it. The hammam area also has a cute outdoor area with hammocks good for lounging on hot days, and another sauna-type room that is supposed to make you feel like you’re floating in clouds. That last one I don’t like much. The only other thing I don’t like about this place is while there’s a “water bar”, with types of bottled water from all over Japan, there’s no free water fountain or cooler. So bring your own water. The restaurant here touts that they bring in food from a famous restaurant, but overall it’s not that good. The entry system here is a bit weird: to access the bath house, you need to buy a ticket to access the adjacent botanical garden (which is kind of mediocre as far as botanical gardens go, except during firefly season when they attract a lot of fireflies.) Despite the few drawbacks I mentioned, overall this place is super-clean and excellent. Access is by Keio Line train from Shinjuku Station or Shibuya Station to Keio Yomiuri-land Station, and then a free shuttle bus which runs frequently. Most of the time you will have to change trains in Chofu; use Google Maps. Unless you’re going at some weird hour it’s about 30 minutes https://www.yomiuriland.com/hanabiyori/kakeinoyu/ofuro-sauna/
2. Toki no Irodori (稲城天然温泉 季乃彩). This one has the advantage of a very large and varied Korean-style hot stone area, which is co-ed, so you can meet up with your friends/loved ones. It even has a barber shop. The restaurant here (which I fear tends to be the case), is kind of terrible. There are very nice areas to rest or nap. They have soft ice cream. And free water! This is a good place to come with a family, as many families use it. The bathing areas sometimes get crowded as a result, and more “lively” than other bath houses. Access is a couple minutes walk from Minami-Tama station on the JR Line. Also about 30 minutes from Shinjuku, including one transfer. https://www.tokinoirodori.com/floorguide/
   
   
3. Maenohara Onsen Sayano Yudokoro (さやの湯処). This one you can get to by subway! They are also very used to tourists, but it’s not overrun. The bath area is varied, but fairly small and focused on outdoor baths. These outdoor baths vary in temperature and because most are not shielded from the sun can get very hot on sunny days. There is a bigger-than-usual cold bath indoors. This place has a beautiful Japanese garden as well, and you get a great view of it from the restaurant. The cafeteria-style restaurant itself, as usual, is bad to mediocre, with the exception of soba, which they apparently make on premesis, and is tasty. There are two stone saunas upstairs, which cost extra (you do get a really big towel to use as part of the deal): one hot, and one very hot, and also a cold room similar to a walk-in refrigerator at a restaurant. I personally do not think it’s worth paying the extra money for this, because these rooms are cramped, although the extra fee for this area does give you access to a very nice big room for relaxing and napping. Access is by subway Mita line to Shimura-Sakaue station and then a 10 minute walk, most of it downhill. Depending on where you’re coming from, you can also take the Tobu Tojo line from Ikebukuro to Tokiwadai station, and then a bus that drops you right in front. https://www.sayanoyudokoro.co.jp/
4. Hatsuhana (初花) A bit more distant, so a bit more expensive to get to, is this place. It’s not in Tokyo; a hair under 2 hours from Shinjuku by express train and you’ll need to buy tickets in advance, although they are not hard to get. You can’t see Mount Fuji from the bath house, but there are places nearby you can, so you can make a day trip of it. I love this place mainly because the water is lukewarm (except for one hot indoor bath) so you can sit in it all day. Also, the restaurant is fantastic. On their website, they talk about how the chef goes out to the garden every morning and picks the vegetables served in the restaurant and it sounds very quaint and sugary, but actually the whole place is a huge vegetable farm and orchard. The restaurant specializes in eel. But it also has a whole separate vegetable menu. Access is from Shinjuku on Chuo Line express (which requires a fare supplement) to Yamanashishi, then a 2 kilometer walk, short cab ride, or you can rent bicycles at the community center across from the station. https://hatsuhana.info/
   
   
5. Funaoka Onsen (船岡温泉) in Kyoto. I have a soft spot in my heart for this place, because when I worked for a little bit at a Kyoto restaurant (and slept in the restaurant), I would come here every day to bathe. Most often late at night: it’s open until 1 AM. Nothing that fancy but cheap and lots of baths, and there’s a good bar across the street. And, they allow tattoos! It also has a bath with electric current, (it claims to be the first in Japan), which I’ve already warned you about and hopefully turned you on to! This is literally in the center of the city but a bit off main roads, so you can reach it by many buses, and then a short walk. http://funaokaonsen.net/index.html